Chef's Corner: Rowell Doronila

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In a recent interview with Connector, Chef Rowell Doronila, Group Pastry Chef at tashas, shared insights into his culinary journey, from his early days in the Philippines to leading the pastry program at one of the UAE’s most renowned hospitality brands.

Since joining tashas in 2015 and later becoming Pastry Sous Chef at Flamingo Room by tashas in 2017, Rowell has played a key role in shaping the brand’s dessert identity with artistic precision and technical mastery. His passion for pastry-making, combined with a meticulous approach to balancing flavours and textures, has now earned him the prestigious role of Group Pastry Chef.

Known for his hands-on leadership and innovative dessert concepts, Rowell sketches each creation before bringing it to life, ensuring a perfect harmony between visual appeal and indulgent flavours. With experience across Dubai and Bahrain’s top establishments, Rowell’s culinary excellence continues to push the boundaries of pastry innovation. Within tashas, he continues to pass on his knowledge as he trains up-and-coming pastry chefs.

1. How did you get started in the food industry?

I began my journey in the Philippines as a cake decorator, specialising in extravagant cakes, particularly wedding cakes. I loved hand-painting designs, sculpting intricate details, and sketching directly onto the cakes, those were my favourite parts of the job! I always knew this was what I wanted to do since I spent most of my life and free time drawing. There’s something so freeing about controlling the pencil in your hand and letting the creativity flow. The art is already in my mind and I love making it a masterpiece and bringing it to life.

2. What is your earliest cooking memory?

I remember being 21 years old, just filling in cupcakes at my first job in the Philippines, in a little place called Art Cakes. Some of the staff there had insane skills and I would look at them and think to myself, “Someday, I want to be as good as they are.” 

I saw one of the employees drawing with an airbrush and I thought, “I could do that!” So, I asked him if I could try it out. He looked me up and down, noting how young I looked, and said “You think you can do this?” to which I said “Yes.” He gave me a blank sheet of paper, a pencil, and a picture of the former Queen of England and told me to take as long as I need to draw it and come back with it completed. He said this with not much confidence, of course, but I just focused on the task at hand. I started to feel a little conscious because people were passing by and looking over my shoulder, so I locked myself in a random stock room, got comfortable, and after two hours, I was done. Once he saw it, he went “Ah, you can draw!” At that moment, he called over the supervisor, saying “Hey, this kid can draw! Let’s get someone else to fill the cupcakes and bring him over to our team.” I would say that’s the first step and memory I can think of that propelled me to be where I am today.

3. What is the one go-to pastry you enjoy making?

I absolutely love making cream puffs filled with custard! It may be a simple pastry, but there’s something deeply satisfying about the contrast between the delicate, airy choux and the rich, velvety custard inside. No matter how many times I’ve made them, I still find joy in perfecting the custard’s consistency and achieving that smooth, luscious texture. It’s a classic that never gets old, and for me, it’s the perfect balance of comfort and craftsmanship.

4. What is the one go-to and easy snack you love making for midnight cravings? 

Korean seafood noodles, hands down! There’s just something so satisfying about a steaming bowl of spicy, umami rich broth packed with seafood flavours. I love enhancing it with seafood like shrimp or squid for a richer taste. The spicy, savoury kick combined with the chewy noodles makes it the perfect comfort food to satisfy late night cravings.

5. What is the one raw ingredient you cannot cook without?

At the risk of sounding very French, it has to be butter, because butter makes everything better! It’s the secret behind the light, airy texture of pastries and the rich, indulgent flavour that elevates every bite. I love how it transforms a simple sponge into something soft and fluffy, and how it gives croissants their signature honeycomb interior.

During baking, butter melts and releases steam, which expands and gets trapped between layers of dough. This is what creates that beautifully delicate, flaky structure. Without butter, pastries would lose their depth, texture, and soul. For me, it’s the ingredient that defines the art of baking.

6. What is the best dessert to try at your restaurant?

The best dessert in my opinion is the Baked Alaska! It comes with a rich chocolate ganache poured over the top. There’s also an exciting option to have it flambéed at your table for a touch of drama.

Chef Rowell Doronila

Group Pastry Chef

tashas 

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